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Growing Potatoes

 

  • Ideal Soil pH: 5.5 - 6.5

  • Ideal Climate: Cool/Mild Climates (50 - 75 degrees Fahrenheit)

  • Daily sunlight for mature plants: 6 - 8 hours direct sunlight

  • Watering mature plants: Deep watering when top inch of soil dries out

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Step 1: Choosing a Location to Plant Potatoes

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Opt for well-drained, loose soil with good aeration. Sandy loam or loamy soil types are ideal for potatoes. Avoid heavy clay soils that can retain too much moisture and lead to waterlogging. Select a site that receives full sun for at least 6 to 8 hours a day. Potatoes thrive in sunlight, and adequate exposure is crucial for healthy growth and tuber development. While potatoes need good air circulation, they can be susceptible to damage from strong winds. Planting them in a location protected from strong gusts can help prevent wind damage to the foliage.

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Step 2: Choosing Potatoes to Plant

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Select potato varieties that are well-suited to your local climate and growing conditions. Some varieties are more tolerant of heat, cold, or drought, so choose accordingly based on your region's climate. Potatoes are classified as early, mid-season, or late varieties based on their maturity period. Early varieties mature faster and are typically ready for harvest within 70 to 90 days after planting, while late varieties may take 100 days or more. Choose the maturity period that aligns with your growing season length and desired harvest time.

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Where to Get Potatoes to Plant

You can have a lot of success planting store bought potatoes that have started to develop eyes on them, and you will have an even higher chance of success if your store bought taters are organic. As always, there are also lots of options online.

Step 3: Preparing Soil for Growing Potatoes

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Remove any weeds, rocks, or debris from the planting area. Weeds can compete with potato plants for nutrients and water, so it's essential to clear them before planting. Use a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of about 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm). This will improve soil aeration, drainage, and root penetration. Avoid working the soil when it's too wet, as this can cause compaction. Incorporate organic matter such as compost, well-rotted manure, or aged leaf mold into the soil. Organic matter improves soil structure, fertility, and water retention. Aim to add about 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) of organic matter and mix it thoroughly with the soil. For traditional planting, create shallow furrows or mounds (hills) spaced about 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) apart. Space rows about 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) apart as well. Alternatively, you can plant potatoes in raised beds or containers.

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Step 4: Planting Seed Potatoes

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If the seed potatoes are large, you can cut them into pieces, making sure each piece has at least one or two eyes. Cut the potatoes a day or two before planting to allow the cut surfaces to dry and callus over, which helps prevent rotting. Small seed potatoes can be planted whole. Place the seed potatoes (whole or cut pieces) into the furrows or on top of the hills, spacing them about 12 to 15 inches (30-38 cm) apart. Plant them with the eyes facing upward. If planting multiple rows, stagger the placement of the seed potatoes for better spacing. Cover the seed potatoes with about 3 to 4 inches (7-10 cm) of soil. For cut pieces, ensure the cut sides are facing downward. Apply a layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the base of the plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. As the potato plants grow and the stems reach about 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) tall, begin hilling up soil around the base of the plants to cover the stems. This encourages the development of more tubers and prevents them from being exposed to sunlight, which can cause greening.

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Step 5: Watering Potatoes

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Regularly check the moisture level of the soil around the potato plants. Stick your finger into the soil near the base of the plants to determine if it feels dry to the touch. If the top inch of soil is dry, it's time to water. When you water, provide enough moisture to penetrate deeply into the soil. This encourages the roots to grow deeper, which helps the plants access water and nutrients more effectively. Water until the soil is evenly moist but not waterlogged.

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Its best to water in the morning hours when the moisture is able to penetrate the soil before it evaporates. It is also good practice to focus the watering around the base of the plant and avoid watering the foliage to reduce the chance of diseases developing.

Step 6: Fertilizing Potatoes

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Side-dress the potato plants with additional fertilizer when they reach about 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) in height. Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal or a high-nitrogen granular fertilizer, along the rows or around the plants. Follow package instructions for application rates.

Step 7: Harvesting Potatoes

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Potatoes are typically ready to harvest when the plants have reached full maturity, and the foliage begins to yellow and die back. This usually occurs about 2 to 3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. However, you can also harvest "new potatoes" earlier, when the tubers are small and tender, if desired. Use a garden fork or shovel to gently loosen the soil around the base of the potato plants. Be careful not to damage the tubers while digging. Carefully lift the potato plants from the soil, taking care not to break or bruise the tubers. Shake off any excess soil from the roots and tubers. After harvesting, allow the potatoes to cure or dry in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area for about 1 to 2 weeks. This helps toughen the skin and improve storage quality. Once cured, store the potatoes in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated location, such as a root cellar, basement, or pantry. Avoid exposure to light, which can cause potatoes to turn green.

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